A most unusual barge floats on Regents Canal, which flows amid the office-littered landscape of King’s Cross. Step aboard the vessel, and you’ll find a trove of literary treasures waiting to be discovered.
Word on the Water, a 1920s Dutch barge, houses an assortment of cult, classic and contemporary fiction and nonfiction books, as well as a large array of children’s books. Its items fill the space both inside and outside the barge, so even those a bit wary of stepping off solid ground can still peruse parts of its collection.
The shop, which the brainchild of Paddy Screech, Jonathan Privett and Stephane Chaudat, has been open for nearly a decade. But it wasn’t always so easy to find. Previously, canal regulations meant the barge had to change location every couple of weeks, popping up wherever its owners could get a spot. After breaking the rules and squatting in one location for six months, the canal trust finally relented and gave the bookshop boat a permanent berth—thanks largely to public outcry and a successful campaign led by the shop’s many supporters.
In its spot along Regents Canal, the barge has become much more than a bookstore. In the winter, its woodburning stove is lit, offering bookworms of all ages a cozy refuge from the dreary cold. In the summer, the barge hosts a variety of performances, bringing anything from folk groups to jazz bands to poetry slams to its rooftop garden.
Word on the Water is a beloved feature of Granary Square, an area developed out of the old King’s Cross train sheds. The particular stretch of Regent’s Canal the barge sits on is home to a small portion of London’s large boating community, some irascible geese and swans, as well as a fine scattering of moorhens.
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The bookshop moored at Kings Cross in 2018 |
|
| Founded | 2010 |
|---|---|
| Founder | Paddy Screech, Jonathan Privett, and Stephane Chaudat |
| Headquarters |
King’s Cross, London |
| Services | Bookshop/Venue |
| Website | www.wordonthewater.co.uk |
Word on the Water is a bookshop situated on a barge that normally resides on Regent’s Canal in the King’s Cross area at Granary Square, London, although it has historically been based at other points along the London canal network. It has appeared in numerous publication’s lists of the best bookshops in the UK including The Washington Post and The Guardian.[1][2] The bookshop’s home is a Dutch canal boat called Dianti dating back to the 1920s.[3] As well as working as a bookshop, it regularly acts as a venue, hosting live music and poetry events.
History[edit]
The idea for the barge came in 2011 after two of the founders (Jon and Paddy) moored their houseboats next to each other.[4] When they tried to buy the barge off Stephane (often referred to as Noy),[5] he became their partner in the business.[6] Because of Canal & River Trust rules, in its early days the boat had to move regularly between different points along the canal. The boat once nearly sunk on account of an accident with a valve.[7]
As a migratory bookshop, moving every two weeks was described as being detrimental to its survival. Jonathan Privett, one of the co-founders noted that ‘People would come see it, see things they wanted to buy, see things they wanted to show their friends, they’d come back the next day and we’d be gone.’[8] During this time, they describe having lived in a state of acute poverty, ‘often choosing between coffee or cigarettes, because we couldn’t have both.’[9]
In 2014, the founders of Word on the Water applied for a permanent mooring licence from the England and Wales’ Canal & River Trust for Regent’s Canal in Paddington, however this was declined and instead given to British Land for the proposed creation of a coffee shop.[10] A petition was set up, asking the Canal & Rivers Trust to provide Word on the Water with a mooring licence. Coverage looking into the dealings between a local real estate corporation and the Canal & River Trust featured in the Private Eye.[11]
A permanent mooring was eventually granted in 2015 in King’s Cross, London.[12][13] This was described as an enormous relief that got rid of the need to ‘literally unbuild the shop every 14 days…and rebuild it at 4’o clock in the morning’.[11] Since then the business has been far more stable and has grown year upon year. In an interview with BookBrunch, they attributed some of their recent success to a mini book-boom and an influx of TikToks which have boosted the profile of the boat amongst both Londoners and tourists.[14]
In 2022, the boat Dianti was refurbished and expanded, raising the roof and adding new metalwork. A feature length documentary was made about the process.[15] [16]
Gallery[edit]
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Inside of the Word on the Water’s canal boat. Books sprawl across dark wooden shelves.
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Bookshop entrance sign
References[edit]
- ^ Boland, Louise (18 June 2021). «10 of Britain’s best indie bookshops». the Guardian. Retrieved 4 February 2022.
- ^ «In London, it’s easy to find a bookstore that floats your boat. (Really. One is on a barge.)». Washington Post. ISSN 0190-8286. Retrieved 15 October 2022.
- ^ Kings Cross. «Word on the Water – the floating book barge at King’s Cross». King’s Cross. Retrieved 4 January 2022.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ Miller, Frederica (6 December 2018). «The tiny floating bookshop moored on a London canal». MyLondon. Retrieved 4 February 2022.
- ^ «Indie View: Word on the Water». Bookbrunch. 15 October 2022. Retrieved 15 October 2022.
- ^ Nordland, Rod (29 November 2017). «London’s Canalboat Bookstore Finds a Berth, and Success». The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 4 February 2022.
- ^ Landon, Alex (17 June 2021). «All Aboard London’s Fabulous Floating Bookshop». Secret London. Retrieved 15 October 2022.
- ^ «Far from sinking, book boom keeps London’s floating bookshop afloat». ABC News. 5 January 2018. Retrieved 15 October 2022.
- ^ Rebuilding Word On The Water — The Journey (Part 1 of 3), retrieved 15 October 2022
- ^ Miller, Frederica (6 December 2018). «The tiny floating bookshop moored on a London canal». MyLondon. Retrieved 4 February 2022.
- ^ a b «Word on the Water». Towpath Talk. 23 January 2020. Retrieved 22 March 2023 – via PressReader.
- ^ The Guardian (8 December 2014). «Save Word on the Water, the wonderful floating bookshop». the Guardian. Retrieved 4 January 2022.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ BBC (24 November 2014). «Campaign to save floating Word On The Water bookshop». BBC News. Retrieved 4 January 2022.
- ^ «Indie View: Word on the Water». Bookbrunch. 15 October 2022. Retrieved 15 October 2022.
- ^ «Film Trailer Drops For Jochnowicz’s Documentary REBUILDING WORD ON THE WATER». Film Trailer Drops For Jochnowicz’s Documentary REBUILDING WORD ON THE WATER. | Britflicks. Retrieved 15 October 2022.
- ^ Rebuilding Word on the Water (2022) — IMDb, retrieved 29 October 2022
External links[edit]
- Paddy Screech (one of the three founders) interview for Word on the Water
Coordinates: 51°32′07″N 0°07′25″W / 51.5354°N 0.1235°W
As libraries go, Word on the Water is in ship shape. Just make sure you don’t accidentally walk the plank, or you’ll miss out on all their great books.
London’s fleet of bookshops has a funky figurehead, and you’ll find it floating on Regent’s Canal. Word on the Water has been bobbing on the waters of London since 2011, and like the pirate ships of old, it’s hauling some sweet booty. Except instead of gold coins and purloined treasures, this place is carrying a whole lotta books. If you do happen upon some treasure, though, be sure to splash it in this book barge.
Word on the Water stocks a neat collection of new and used books, filling every nook and cranny. Whether you’re looking for poetry on the pond or literature on the lagoon, this is your spot. Browse the shelves outside, or head inside for stacks of books on a huge range of subjects, warmed by a cosy stove. I mean, when else are you going to have the chance to read Austen on a 1920s barge?
It has stared down the usual problems facing bookshops – online retailers and Netflix-shaped distractions – but Word on the Water has also overcome some unique challenges. Before they secured a permanent mooring, they were forced to move each fortnight by canal authorities, which is not a problem Waterstones face.
More dramatically, the barge nearly sank several years ago after the interior flooded. Thankfully, the vessel nicknamed ‘The London Bookbarge’ has dropped anchor for the foreseeable future.
Whilst books are the main attraction, you’ll find even more to entertain you here. Word on the Water run talks on engaging topics such as politics, art, feminism, and technology. Meanwhile, the barge’s roof welcomes musicians and performers for open mic sessions, as well as the occasional reading or poetry slam. On a gorgeous summer’s eve, there are few better places to be, and in the winter, well, it’s known to look just like this!
The likes of Coal Drops Yard are handily placed next door, so you can pair that book learnin’ with a wander through the shops and a bite to eat. Your biggest problem at Word on the Water is picking out the perfect book. Maybe a tale of the high seas would do nicely? Yo ho ho and a bottle of rum!
Practical information
Also published on Medium.
Did you know that London has a quirky and magical floating bookshop on an old canal barge?
Yes, you read that right and you can find it moored on Regent’s Canal Towpath near King’s Cross!
London’s book barge is deceivingly large inside and you’ll find it filled to the brim with novels, poetry, and art.
But, it’s more than just a bookshop. They even run talks, poetry slams, and events throughout the year.
It’s a must-visit for readers, here is how to find Word on the Water London and what to expect when visiting The London Bookbarge!
Word on the Water history
Word on the Water can be found on Dianti, a Dutch Canal Boat that was built in the 1920s. But, the bookshop is not as old as all that!
The idea for the London Bookbarge came about in 2011 after two of the founder’s, Paddy Screech and Jonathan Privett, parked their boats next to one another.
They bought the quirky canal barge from the other founder Stephane Chaudat and then went into the book business together!
Back then, due to the Canal & River Trust regulations, the floating bookshop had to change locations every so often.
This meant that business was (quite literally) unstable and resulted in many accidents. The boat almost sank at one point!
They applied for a permanent mooring licence several times only to be rejected. Eventually, King’s Cross granted them a permanent home on Regent’s Canal in 2015.
The London Bookbarge has gone from strength to strength ever since and is now a popular haunt for many locals and tourists alike!
What to expect in Word on the Water
It was a cloudy and miserable day in London on my visit but as I approached The London Bookbarge, the upbeat music and the prospect of buying new books made me forget all that!
You’ll see books stacked on the towpath, on the rooftop, and pretty much everywhere on the boat. They really make use of every nook & cranny available.
As you step over the plank and onto the book barge, you’ll find it deceptively large inside, and every wall is filled with novels, poetry, and artwork.
But, as you can imagine, although it’s moored up on the river it is still floating and can be wobbly. So, be careful not to rock the boat.
On my visit, a huge tour group arrived to chat inside and we were rocking everywhere whilst browsing the shelves!
If you don’t have very good sea legs, there are some chairs and sofas set up by their crackling stove fire if it’s a cold day that makes it super cosy. Or, if it’s a sunny day, many people sit outside by the towpath to read.
What books do they sell in Word on the Water?
The London Bookbarge sell a great range of second-hand and new books and they had a great range of genres inside.
You’ll find fiction like Sci-Fi and Fantasy, non-fiction, autobiographies, classics, poetry, and a large range of children’s books too! It was also refreshing to see brand-new releases.
You could spend ages looking on their boat for books. Honestly, every inch of space has been used up and you’ll find volumes pretty much everywhere inside.
Don’t forget to grab one of their Word on the Water tote bags to carry your books home in!
Events, talks & so much more!
As well as being a haven for bibliophiles, Word on the Water is more than just a bookstore on Regent’s Canal.
They often hold events on the Dianti throughout the year that anyone is welcome to attend.
Live music, talks on politics, poetry slams and artists often come aboard. So, it’s worth checking what’s on when you’re visiting.
Word on the Water events are posted on their Facebook Page!
Where is the Word on the Water barge?
Although it used to change locations often, Word on the Water can be found permanently moored on the Regent’s Canal in the King’s Cross area of London.
It’s parked in front of Wharf Road Gardens and a few minute’s walk from King’s Cross Station. So, it’s very easy to visit via overland trains or the London underground when you’re in the city.
Or, you could plan a visit as part of a bike ride or hike along the Regent’s Canal Towpath!
How to visit Word on the Water
The easiest way to visit Word on the Water would be to take the tube, or London Underground, and then walk over to The London Bookbarge.
The nearest tube station for Word on the Water is King’s Cross St Pancras. It’s then only a 5-minute walk to the floating bookshop.
You can follow signs for the Regent’s Canal and it’s very close to the London Canal Museum that is nearby.
Once you approach the canal, you’ll need to walk down the steps and head along the Regent’s Canal towpath to visit. You’ll usually hear their upbeat music before you arrive!
Word on the Water address is Regent’s Canal Towpath, London, N1C 4LW. Click here for a Google Pin!
Word on the Water opening times
Word on the Water is open every day of the week from 12 pm – 8 pm so there is lots of time to visit whilst in London.
I would always recommend visiting during the day for the best experience to see everything. But, nighttime may also be a good vibe too especially with their fire!
- Does Word on the Water have a café? No, there is no café at The London bookbarge, but you’ll find many in Coal Drops Yard nearby.
- What is the name of London’s floating book barge? Word on the Water!
- Who owns Word on the Water? There are three founders; Paddy Screech, Jonathan Privett, and Stephane Chaudat.
Looking for more amazing London bookshops?
If you’re looking for some incredible bookshops to visit in London you will be spoiled for choice.
A personal favourite of mine would be Daunt Books in Marylebone. Daunt Books have a chain of stores in London but the Marylebone store is by far the prettiest.
They have a large open-plan book hoard, as well as a lower-floor basement with volumes crammed inside.
Their upper mezzanine floor gives a great view of the bookshop and has a gorgeous stained glass window at the back! They also sell some incredible tote bags as well.
If you wanted to visit a real-life Diagon Alley then you can head over to Cecil Court near Charing Cross.
This shopping street is supposedly the inspiration for the Wizarding shopping street from the Harry Potter books.
In true Diagon Alley fashion, you’ll find lots of bookshops worthy of Flourish and Blotts like Travis & Emery and Alice Through The Looking Glass.
Click here to read my complete guide on Cecil Court!
Things to do near Word on the Water
- Coal Drops Yard – Named after the unusual buildings that were made to transfer coal, you can find a trendy shopping and foodie destination just a few minutes from Word on the Water. You can stop by here for a coffee or lunch.
- Visit Platform 9 3/4 at King’s Cross – If you’re a bookworm then you must have heard of Harry Potter. Although Platform 9 and 3/4 is a work of fiction, you can visit the Harry Potter shop! They have a trolley nearby for a photo opportunity. Click here to read how to find Platform 9 3/4.
- The British Library – A mega research library with a collection of over 170 million items over 400 miles of shelves. They receive a copy of every publication in the UK and Ireland. In their collection is the Magna Carta, Leonardo Da Vinci’s notebook, manuscripts from Jane Austen, and handwritten Beatles lyrics! A must-visit.
- The Hardy Tree – This quirky attraction near Camden is a tree surrounded by gravestones. It was an invention of Thomas Hardy before his rise to fame. He was tasked to reduce the number of graves in London with the introduction of the railways. You can read more in my Hardy Tree post here.
Save time and book a tour!
Read more of my London articles
How to visit 221b Baker Street
Why you must ride London Cable Cars
A complete guide to the Greenwich Foot Tunnel
Why you must visit God’s Own Junkyard
The hidden gem of St Dunstan in the East Church Garden
FREE things to do in the London Bridge District
Goodwin’s Court in London
A Harry Potter guide for Leadenhall Market
Magical cocktails at The Cauldron
Why you must visit the Harry Potter Photographic Exhibition
London’s only Butterbeer Bar
How to visit Harry Potter’s 12 Grimmauld Place
Why you must visit the House of MinaLima
Dark Arts at Harry Potter Studios London
The secret Anne Boleyn symbols at Hampton Court Palace
Visiting Hogwarts in the Snow at Harry Potter Studios
How to visit the Hogwarts Divination Stairwell at St Paul’s Cathedral
The best London Christmas lights and displays to visit
A complete Mr. Fogg’s Tavern review
Save Word on the Water London for later!
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Этого человека зовут Джон. Больше 4 лет он является хозяином книжного магазина на воде «Word On The Water». А до этого Джон 20 лет проработал в государственном секторе по реабилитации бывших наркоманов.
У него много почитателей, которые даже помогли ему приобрести постоянную «парковку» для его лодки рядом со станцией Паддингтон. Бизнес Джона очень прост. Он продает подержанные книги (3-4 фунта за книгу), которые ему зачастую приносят сами люди абсолютно безвозмездно.
Вот тут можно отследить его местоположение, если вдруг вам кроме наскучивших брелоков с красными телефонными будками и мишек Падингтонов в качестве сувенира из Англии захочется привезти еще и б/у книжки.
Кстати, это не единственный предприниматель, которого я встречала на воде.
Практикующий гомеопат. Не уточняла правда где он принимает своих пациентов. Наверное тут же.
А это Straw Goose — фреш бар на воде. Они еще и самодельными браслетиками а-ля хиппи приторговывают.
And finally…на Темзе запустили плавучий дом, двухэтажное здание голубого цвета с двориком и лужайкой, которое можно арендовать на короткий срок.